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Gus's Chalet
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Transitional Man
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Transitional Man
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Wed May 14 2008 at 1:23:52
There are
restaurant
s that become chic. They offer unique food and for a brief period of time are full of the young and hip, eating the latest in trendy dishes. They are the
supernovae
of
cuisine
, who burn brightly and fast.
Gus's Chalet
in
Akron, Ohio
is not one of those restaurants. It's old school, but then so is Gus. Remember that scene in
Boogie Nights
where Dirk Digler worked when he was discovered? Yellow glass decorations, dark stained spindle work dividing the booths? You know the seventies, the days of
disco
and coke-spoon necklaces. The age of
shag carpet
. Granted Gus's doesn't have shag carpets (not too practical in a food service environment), but the moment you step inside Gus's you take a step back in time. Have your
leisure suit
ready. This is a place where little or nothing has changed in decades. See the hot
babe
behind the bar? She's in her late forties, but trust me she's still turning heads. Gus is moving slower and more sits at the bar and talks to his patrons, but then his restaurant is forty years old. And many of his clients have been going there the whole time. One reason is the food. It's basic Americana, steak and fish, a few Greek favorites like
mousaka
and
pastitso
but everything is very fresh, very tender and tasty. Appetizers come automatically, pickled carrots, peperoncini, and a really, really wonderful bean salad. The bread is good but nothing special. And they give you a piece of toast, with melted
cream cheese
sauce on top. It's all old school, but trust me it works. Prices are quite reasonable, with few entrees passing $20 and a few at $10. The hot babe at the bar mixes a mean
Manhattan
. It's also very friendly. Gus has a lot of long term customers. But the waitresses (this is an old school place) have also been working there since the seventies, and in one case maybe the sixties. Gus must be a pretty good guy to work for. They know you, and you know them. There's lots of friendly conversation at the bar. And the other hand the restaurant's days are probably numbered. Both patrons and staff are aging, and there are few young people patronizing the establishment. They'd be welcome, of course, particularly if they were the kind who liked stories, enjoyed a well-cooked and reasonably priced steak and didn't mind all the
gray matter
. But without new blood sooner or later both patron and staff will be gone. And so will pass a fine restaurant that has been feeding (and treating) people well for decades. But for the moment it's still open for business, and the waitress will treat you like a friend and bring you the best bean salad you've ever tasted while your waiting for your dinner. It's a great little
time capsule
of old-school dining. Gus's Chalet 938 E. Talmadge Ave. Akron, Ohio 44310 (330) 633-2322 Gus's is located just east of the Talmadge Ave. Exit of State Rt. 8 in the northeast side of Akron. It's a brown building with
false timbering
on the north side of the street. And well worth it.
printable version
chaos
Akron, Ohio
Waitressing as a Form of (Retrospective) Existential Angst
Ralph Carney
Manhattan
Boogie Nights
Mullen's Dairy Bar
zen theme
Chrissie Hynde
Stan Hywet
Swenson's Drive-In Restaurants
leisure suit
disco
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