When, in a moment of piety to Allah, the Caliph Al Hakam (ruler of medieval Toledo) was about to forbid wine drinking, his treasurer pointed out this would result in a disasterous shortfall in taxes that might prohibit the large extension of the library. The caliph was a scholar, a poet and a bibliophile, and as a result he quickly gave up the idea. Toledo remained a town of wine and learning for the next six centuries, seeming to rebuff the image of Islam as a universally extremist faith, until the excesses of the Spanish Inquisition, beginning in 1492 pushed many of the Islamic & Talmudic scholars into the more liberal, intellectual environment of Fez.

(Source: Richard Erdoes, "AD 1000 : Europe at the end of the Millennium", Seastone: Berkley, 1998.)

Track 10 of Dan Bern/Bernstein's 2001 album, New American Language is full of the kind of stream of consciousness pop culture references fans of the quirky folksinger have come to know and love. It's slow and meditative, especially in contrast to the previous track, the almost manically upbeat "Honeydoo!" Like "Albuquerque Lullaby", it addresses the listener with sympathy and encouragement. Yet interwoven with its message of coming to peace with a cruel world is a quiet spirituality and political consciousness, as comes through strongest in the bridge:

And I'm closer to God
Than I've ever been before
Walking the streets of Spain
Painting Karl Marx on every door
Groucho Marx on every door
Mark of the Beast on every door

The reference is of course to the Old Testament miracle celebrated at Passover: Moses and his adopted brother Pharaoh were locked in a battle of wills over the liberation of the enslaved Jews. "Let my people go" and all that dramatic stuff. Jahweh was not one to stand idly by while his prophet made ruckus, either: the land of Egypt had already been struck by eleven terrible plagues when He delivered the coup de grace, which involved sending the Angel of Death to kill all the first-born sons in the kingdom. Only the Hebrews' children were spared, as they'd taken the precaution of painting their doors with lamb's blood. The grisly marks probably didn't take any of the forms Bernstein suggests, but then again, there's no way to know, and Dan's ever the master of the cosmically comic "what if?" He also tours pretty extensively in Spain, where he seems to have attracted a devoted fanbase. So it's easy to imagine him wandering the streets of a Spanish city doling out charmingly surreal advice.

Words and music by Dan Bern/Bernstein, who sang and played guitar on this, one of the more sparsely orchestrated (and hence more classically Bernstein) songs on the album.

Lyrics (reproduced here by permission)

Sitting in the Church
of the Holy McDonald's
I took off my shoes
Like the Buddhists told me to
And I make my sacred offering
And I dip my hands in Pepsi
Sailed off to Virginia
And expelled all the Jews
And maybe all the things
You thought you got coming to you
Ain't coming to you
Not in this life
And maybe all the promises
You thought were broken
Were never really made
Promises never made

You say the stars quit shining
Quit shining on your head
Even the moon stopped coming up
Some old streetlight instead
But standing in the fields
Beneath the universe, you hurt
'Cause as the Milky Way whirls over you
All you got is dirt
And don't worry 'bout the Jews
They'll do fine in Lithuania
And bring a picture of the Virgin Larry
To your cousin in Carolina
And maybe all the promises
You thought were broken
Were never really made
Promises never made

And I'm closer to God
Than I've ever been before
Walking the streets of Spain
Painting Karl Marx on every door
Groucho Marx on every door
Mark of the Beast on every door

Santa Maria
Gloria Padre
Holy candy wrapper
'Neath the foot of Sierra Madre
And there's no use even trying
To sing till after midnight
Let's start the day with music
And wake up everybody
That's fool enough to try sleeping
Before it's getting light out
It's summer in Toledo
And I saw three ships a-sailing
And maybe all the things
You thought you got coming to you
Ain't coming to you
Not in this life
And maybe all the promises
You thought were broken
Were never really made
Promises never made

Toledo is a city in Spain of 59,000 people, and an important tourist attraction and historical site. It predates the Roman invasion of Spain - the Romans wrote of a "very well-defended city" upon a mountain. Toledo is protected also by the Tagus River; one bridge across is the Puente de Alcantara which was originally built by the Romans. Little else is known about the Roman occupation of Toledo.

The Visigoths expelled the Romans after the empire collapsed in the fifth century CE and ruled only briefly; they brought Christianity into the country. However, Christian rule ended in 711 with the Moorish invasion. The Moors were fairly tolerant of Christians, allowing them to live freely in their cities (the later Christian rulers of Spain did not reciprocate). Much of Toledo retains a Muslim feel, with narrow, winding streets and such features as an Alcázar, or Moorish fortress.

Most of Toledo's architecture still bears obvious Muslim heritage; it is almost completely built in the Mudéjar style of the Spanish Muslims after the Reconquista. Before the Muslims were forcibly expelled (along with the Jews) in 1492, they built almost all of Toledo. The aforementioned Jews played an integral role in the society of Toledo as well; they were prominent merchants, money-lenders, and intellectuals. They were allowed to practice their religion openly under Muslim rule but not tolerated by the Catholics, leading to their expulsion. Toledo still retains a synagogue, Santa Maria la Blanca, dating back to the eleventh century. It was also built in the Mudéjar style. It was later turned into a church, as were most of Spain's synagogues.

The center of the city features a Gothic cathedral, built on the site of a former mosque. It is considered one of the finest in the world, and modeled after the French style. In the Gothic style, it features lots of light, which shines in through Gothic arches supported by flying buttresses.

Toledo was an extremely important city in Europe - until 1560, it was Spain's capital, and this was during the period when Spain was a major world power. In 1560, however, the capital was moved 60 miles north, to Magerit, now known as Madrid, because Toledo's highly defensible location stopped its growth. After that, Toledo faded somewhat in political importance, which allowed it to retain many of its old buildings.

Today Toledo is primarily a tourist attraction - expect to see throngs of foreigners on every corner, and shops every half-block selling the intricate gold- and silverwork that Toledo is famous for, along with daggers and swords. It is a very pretty town, but it has little to offer that couldn't be seen in a day trip from Madrid, and its reachable in an hour by train or bus.

To*le"do (?), n.

A sword or sword blade made at Toledo in Spain, which city was famous in the 16th and 17th centuries for the excellence of its weapons.

 

© Webster 1913.

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