Pula is a major port and tourism centre located at the tip of Croatia's Istrian Peninsula in the northern Adriatic Sea. It is Croatia's 7th largest city with a population of 58,300 (2002) and has a history stretching back 3000 years, making it the most ancient city on the Eastern Adriatic. Pula is not only rich with Roman monuments and cultural attractions, but it is also a relatively short drive away for most Western and Central Europeans, explaining its status as one of Croatia's most popular tourist destinations.
History
Human settlement in the region has been traced back to about a million years ago and many archaeological discoveries have been made dating back between 6000 and 2000 BC. The oldest known civilization in Istria was established by an Illyric people called the Histri, whose main city, Nezakcium, was located in the interior of the Istrian Peninsula. This city fell to the Roman Empire in 177 BC, bringing Istria within the Empire's borders and beginning the gradual process of Romanization.
Pula was first mentioned in the 3rd century BC as Polai in the work of Greek poets Callimachus and Lycophron, describing the voyage of Jason and the Argonauts:
"On the Illyrian river the oars came to rest
by the gravestone of pale-haired Harmonia-Snake,
a city was founded: a Greek might have called it 'A City of Refuge'
but in their language they named it Polai."
It has been thus claimed that Pula was founded by Jason and Medea, and Greek pottery has been found in the region, but of course this connection cannot be proven.
Pula attained the rank of Roman Colony around 46-45 BC, which resulted in intense development of the city and the surrounding area under its jurisdiction. The names of the colony's founders are engraved on the oldest standing Roman monument in Pula, the Hercules Gate, located on the north side of the city centre. A few years later, Pula was destroyed following Octavian's victory in the civil war that began in 42 BC, but it was soon rebuilt due to geo-strategic factors and the Arch of Sergians was erected as a symbol of victory. Pula's other major monuments followed: the Temple of Augustus between 2 BC and 14 AD, and the Amphitheatre later in the 1st century.
Pula faced hard times with the collapse of the Roman Empire. In the 5th century, it was conquered by the Ostrogoths, only to fall under the juristiction of the Byzantine Empire a few decades later. In the second half of the 6th century, the Slavs began their invasion of the Istrian Peninsula, and feudalism was introduced in 788 with the rule of the Franks. This enabled the mass migration of Croat farmers into to the region.
Pula swore allegiance to Venice in 1150, and the Venetians gradually conquered the western part of Istria over the 13th century. The Venetians took over Pula itself in 1331 and ruled it until the end of the 18th century (1797). In that time, the city became a typical medieval town in the Romanesque-Gothic style and many famous artists left their mark, including Michaelangelo and Dante Alighieri. During the 14th, 15th, and 16th centuries, Pula was attacked and conquered by the Genoese, Croatian-Hungarian, and Austrian armies, causing great devastation.
In 1799, the Venetian part of the Istrian Peninsula, including Pula itself, was finally handed over to the Austrian Empire. Six years later it became part of Napoleon's Illiricum province, but rejoined Austria again in 1813. Although Pula was at risk of disappearing altogether, Austria decided in 1859 to establish it as its largest naval base, and the city was transformed into a major Croatian industrial port.
With the fall of the Austro-Hungarian Empire following World War I, the whole of Istria, including Pula, was handed over to Italy by King Alexander of Yugoslavia. It was then reintegrated into Croatia following World War II and the creation of Marshal Tito's Socialist Yugoslavia.
What to see
Thanks to its turbulent history, there's a great deal to see in this ancient city. Some of the major sights:
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The Amphitheatre
Built around the same time as the Colosseum in Rome and once seated 23,000 spectators. It's probably the best preserved Roman amphitheatre in the world and looks spectacular at night. Admission is only a few dollars and it's definitely worth exploring.
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The Arch of Sergians ("The Golden Gate")
Probably the first Roman monument most people see since it marks the entrance to the Old Town. Take a picture!
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Hercules Gate
The oldest monument in Pula and is actually a pair of arches. Hercules Gate is just across from the amphitheatre, but be careful: it's easy to miss among the huge trees.
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The Forum
The main square in the Old Town, boasting both the Temple of Augustus and the 13th century Town Hall. My advice: don't miss the world class ice cream sold along its perimeter!
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The Venetian Citadel
This fortress sits atop the mountain in the exact centre of the Old Town and offers a panoramic view of the city below. It's surprisingly easy to miss while strolling through the narrow streets, so make sure you take one of the alleyways towards the centre from the circular main street. Admission is only a couple dollars.
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The numerous beaches
Pula has the most coves of any Croatian coastal city, naturally creating far more beaches than usual. The Adriatic is clean and crystal clear, as it is throughout Croatia's coastal region, and the beaches are rocky. I personally prefer rocky beaches over the typical sandy kind, but it can be slippery in places and you have to take care not to step on the spiny sea urchins along the water's edge. The view is both extremely beautiful and relaxing, though it's better to go in the morning with the locals if you want to avoid tourists during high season.
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The Pula International Film Festival
Held towards the end of July in the Amphitheatre, the festival provides a great opportunity to see the latest films from not only the former Yugoslavia, but also the rest of Europe. http://www.pulafilmfestival.com/
A photographic glimpse
A full gallery of fantastic photographs and historical drawings can be found here:
http://www.pan.hr/pula/gb/puframe.htm
REFERENCES:
My vacation there in August 2002!
http://www.gradpula.com/tourist/engl/povijest/kratkap.htm
http://www.croatia.net/pula/html/history.html
http://faust.irb.hr/~jvc8/venue.html
http://www.pan.hr/pula/gb/puframe.htm
http://www.world-gazetteer.com/fr/fr_hr.htm