The ATC, or
Air Traffic Control by
Black Diamond, Is a
tube belay for the purpose of
rock climbing. Some would say THE belay for
rock climbing, as the
ATC seems to be the most common belay device used. In fact, some will refer to about any
tube belay as an
ATC, a practice likened to calling every
tissue a
Kleenex.
The ATC functions by passing a loop or
bight or rope through a narrow slot (pretty much just wide enough to allow the width of the two rope strands) and then putting a
carabineer through the loop in the rope, as well as a small plastic loop attached to the ATC, for the purpose of keeping it close to the belay person, and attaching said
carabineer to the
belay person. What results is the working end of the rope (the end that goes to through whatever protection is in place and eventually terminates at the climber), enters the ATC, travels around a carabineer, and out the same slot in the ATC, becoming the Braking or loose end.
Just as with most any
tube belay, when the
belay person wishes to lock off the rope, they pull the brake end of the rope to their side, causing the device to clamp down on the loop wrapped around the
carabineer. It becomes impossible (or, very very difficult) for the rope to move, and the weight from the rope is transferred to whatever the
belay is clipped into, be it an anchor, or the
belay person. The braking hand has only to exert enough effort to hold the rope at their side.
Downsides: Constant attention MUST be paid by the Belay person, always ready to lock off the rope in case of a fall. Sometimes a climber can work a particular spot many times, falling until they get it right. This results in long periods holding the brake on, and this can be fatiguing. It is also not appropriate for certain types of belay setups.
PLEASE NOTE: This node is not a replacement for training in any climbing technique or device. It's not a replacement for the advice of the manufacture of said device, who knows best it's limitations. It's not even all the information a person would need in evaluating a decision to purchase one device or another. This node exists solely for the purpose of providing a bit of information to a non-climber as to what those little bits are hanging all over that crazy bastard who's dangling like a worm on a hook on some cliff wall.