My favorite example of
ethnic-restaurant English that's been mangled, without actually messing with its
grammar, didn't actually use quotes - it was just two big-red-lettered signs in the window. They read: NEW CHEF. GOOD FOOD.
But back to the point: those quotes, on restaurant menus, seem to particularly irk the sort of person who's cynical. That is, the sort of person who would use scare quotes in the first place. Rather than hammering away at the chink in English's armor that will make the whole language fall apart, quotes that attempt to denote emphasis are just eliminating, very slowly, the usefulness of scare quotes. This may be the price our culture pays for the irony bender we went on in the 1990's - scare quotes are being destroyed by clueless sincerity.
There's another way of looking at those restaurant-menu quotes, that makes them make a little more sense. They turn scare quotes from a mean-spirited, larcenous packaging into... well, just packaging. As meaningless and disposable as real packaging. If you look at Japanese culture, and the way so many Japanese snacks-and-such are packaged a little excessively for the extra feeling of swankness it imparts, the quote thing becomes more understandable. Or, for that matter, read an American news magazine and note the way nothing is accepted as true and authoritative unless it comes packaged in quotes, out of the mouth of some expert or another.